Saturday, January 16, 2010

Sau Mai Totoya Organise Fijian Takia Race

www.fijitimes.com - Saturday, January 16, 2010

THE people of Suva will see first-hand traditional maritime skills on display when the people of Fulaga and Moce battle it out in a canoe race next week.

The competition is organised by the Pacific Blue Foundation, an NGO that dedicates itself to Pacific cultural and ecological conservation.

Organiser and newly-installed Roko Sau from Totoya, Roko Josefa Cinavilakeba, said the historic event was created to promote awareness of unique indigenous craftsmanship and sailing skills.

"The competition provides the opportunity for the islanders to display their skills through sustainable conservation and practical use within our modern lifestyle," said Roko Josefa.

End of story

Friday, January 15, 2010

Clan supports land changes

by Monika Singh

www.fijitimes.com - Friday, January 15, 2010

A LANDOWNING unit has welcomed the idea of getting their land back but feels that lease money should be held in trust by the Native Land Trust Board.

Paula Rawiriwiri, the Turaga ni Yavusa Matanikorovatu, said they were happy with the new development to revoke the Agricultural Landlord and Tenant Act (ALTA) as this would allow them to lease their own land.

"That is what we, landowners want, to have our land returned to us. Most importantly, we want it leased so our members will benefit for the future of developments in our mataqali, especially for the education of our children and welfare of our own people," he said.

Mr Rawiriwiri said a lot of people wanted to lease land, especially the Indian community who were good farmers.

"But for our mataqali, we will lease our land because majority in our clan are working people and we will not have time to work on the land, which will be a waste," he said.

He said they would welcome any moves to have NLTB hold their money in trust until they need it.

"If it is kept with us, any member of a committee formed to look after that can use money unwisely, or on unnecessary spending and it will totally defeat the purpose of investing for the long term," he said.

Meanwhile, the Soqosoqo Vakamarama says the proposal to revoke ALTA would free landowners to release land for utilisation, and would create security for both landowners and tenants.

"This is because landowners can have tenants for 99 years, and they will have someone they trust with their land," said general secretary Adi Finau Tabakaucoro.

She said having a long term lease would facilitate better planning for the land usage.

"Land has value as long as it is being cultivated or used for some kind of work," she said.

Adi Finau applauded the idea of NLTB and the Fijian Affairs Board encouraging landowners to invest.

"Landowners need to save for their children and future generations and we believe that NLTB has thought about this in detail."

Thursday, January 14, 2010

ALTA is Out

by Ifereimi Nadore

www.fijitimes.com - Thursday, January 14, 2010

THE Agricultural Landlord and Tenant Act (ALTA) will be revoked under the new Land Reform program.

And all leases under native land will now come under the legal framework of the Native Land Trust Act.

This means that farmers can soon expect to be able to lease native land for 99 year terms, as opposed to the 30 years that they were restricted to under ALTA.

Native Land Trust Board general manager Alipate Qetaki yesterday confirmed these details and said the board felt the revocation of ALTA should benefit landowners who over the years were denied a fair share of returns from the use of their land.

Mr Qetaki said the change would not only benefit landowners but also tenants and other stakeholders as well.

He confirmed that now that ALTA would be revoked, all agricultural leases would have their tenure extended from 30 to 99 years.

"The challenge is to work out appropriate terms and conditions for the lease itself. And having done this the interest of the landowners would be taken into account," Mr Qetaki said.

He said the new changes would have to go hand in hand with today's economic climate.

"This means that we have to build in certain conditions such as the periodic review of the rent likewise the periodic assessment of land," Mr Qetaki said.

This, he said, would also require a swifter and stronger enforcement regime.

"We don't like to see people taking advantage of the landowners," he said.

"We have to consider the reform with its current context. The main issue is to have accessibility to land but you have to pay the price," said Mr Qetaki.

He reiterated that the ownership of the native land would not change.

"We have to find ways for how the landowners can best utilise their land and we will have all the necessary framework to facilitate that.

Best use not only for the landowners, but for the tenants and whole country, he said.

He said the NLTB would like to empower the landowners to lease their own land for commercial farming, housing, and hotel business.

He said the board would work closely with the Fijian Affairs Board by advising the landowners to become involved in entrepreneurship.

"We would like to see the landowners properly invest their trust funds from land for future needs in education, development and other community service," said Mr Qetaki.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Totoya Chief Calls for Islands Shipping Improvement

Islanders leave in numbers for better opportunities

www.fijitimes.com - Wednesday, January 13, 2010

VILLAGERS on Totoya in Lau have called on the Government to improve the franchised shipping service to the Lau Group to avoid the mass migration of islanders to Viti Levu.

They said life in the islands was becoming unbearable due to the lack of economic activities and development.

They said the islanders had no choice but to leave with their children for better opportunities on the mainland.

Paramount chief of Totoya, the Rokosau Roko Josefa Cinavilakeba, told the Fiji Times the number of islanders had dropped significantly over the years due to the lack of income.

"People have abandoned their homes and are moving with their families to Viti Levu because they are finding it hard here," said Roko Josefa.

He said schools which normally had a roll of more than 100 students had recorded low turnout as families moved their children to Viti Levu.

"The roll for the four primary schools on the island continues to decrease over the years," he said.

because families have decided to move to Suva as they want the best for their children," added Roko Josefa.

Roko Josefa said life in Totoya would change for the better only if the shipping service was improved.

"We have copra and a very rich fishing grounds. Also we have nice sandy beaches and surfing spots for tourists. But when we don't have a regular shipping service we are being denied the chance to market these resources," said Roko Josefa.

He said that because of the poor shipping service the villagers were forced to sell their copra to the Methodist Church on the island to cater for their daily expenses.

Roko Josefa said goods sold at the Post Fiji shop on the island were too expensive.

Chiefs hails lawmen in poaching battle

www.fijitimes.com - Wednesday, January 13, 2010

VIGILANCE by police officers over the qoliqoli of Macuata has resulted in a drop in poaching activities.

This has been applauded by the province's high chief, Ratu Aisea Katonivere, who described the efforts of authorities as excellent and outstanding.

Ratu Aisea said the police, the Fisheries Department and the village fishing wardens had helped fight illegal fishing activities.

He said the Macuata Qoliqoli Cokovata committee would work with the police and fisheries officials this year to rid the province of the illegal activity.

Ratu Aisea said poaching had been the committee's greatest battle in the qoliqoli area.

The committee had observed that fishermen holding licenses for the province of Bua had poached the Macuata qoliqoli.

Ratu Aisea said such activities had decreased but it wasn't a guarantee to the committee that poaching would stop.

He said this was the reason the committee had worked with the State and stakeholders to stop the poaching.

Rati Aisea said fishing wardens were equipped and their involvement had helped the police and fisheries officials.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Ro Veidovi of Rewa - Right and Wrong

Nothing but the truth

by Ro Alipate Mataitini

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Dona Takalaiyale, on instructions of the Roko Tui Dreketi, pleaded in the letters column of a newspaper on Saturday, January 9, 2010, that those closely related by blood to the Roko Tui Dreketi desist from making any more public comments about Ro Veidovi. Three days later, in direct contravention of this, he made the same plea in the Fiji Times of Tuesday, January 12, but then went further with a feature article published in the Fiji Times. I will make this my final comment on the issue.

The reaction from Dona was emotional and expected, since it went against the very things that some people hold dear the glorification of a period that was rife with sibling rivalry, fratricide, parricide, vanua politics, hero worship and cannibalism. Indeed, these characteristics are still very much at play in Rewa today in one form or another.

Interestingly, Dona (and those behind him) show scant respect for the close relationship between the vunivalu of Rewa and the Roko Tui Dreketi on the one hand, and that of the two chiefly households with the vanua on the other. Otherwise, he would not have made such inappropriate comments.

Dona's loyalty to the Roko Tui Dreketi is not in question; that there was an invitation from the Smithsonian Institute is not in question either. The truth hurts, though, and I insist that to call Ro Veidovi anything other than what he was is simply glossing over the truth, whatever the age he lived in.

Dona need only read the article by Dr Roderick Ewans in the Fiji Times of Monday, January 4, 2010 to confirm the manner in which the media had been trying to "re-invent" and "lionize" (Dr Ewans' terms) a man, albeit of chiefly blood, who, in fact, broke the law. I personally do not know Dr Ewans, but his comments are quite telling, coming from a person with no agenda except the quest for the truth.

Ro Veidovi was indeed a chief to be reckoned with. This was never suggested otherwise. The fact is that he was directly responsible for the death of 10 Americans, for which he was convicted and sent to the United States to serve his sentence.

To suggest that he came aboard the Peacock out of love and respect for the hostages Roko Tui Dreketi and his entourage is erroneous. Had it not been for Ro Qaraniqio, Ro Veidovi would probably sooner have had Ro Banuve out of the way in order to lay claim to the title himself. Brotherly and familial love at the time is something overrated today.

Ro Veidovi's brothers were Ro Koroitamana (also known as Mataitini), killed by warriors because he murdered his father, the then Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Tabaiwalu; Ro Macanawai, clubbed to death by his brother Ro Tuisawau (also called Seru) who was in turn murdered by gunshot by Ro Veidovi (there you go again); Vakatawanavatu, who was killed in war; and Ro Banuve, the Roko Tui Dreketi himself who was killed by the hands of his Bauan cousins. The other brothers were Ro Cokanauto, known as Philips, and Ro Qaraniqio, who was said of all the brothers to have the mien and bearing of a true chief.

This cycle of death and murder was somewhat the norm in those days. But with the advent of the white man and of Christianity, a day of reckoning had to eventuate. Whether or not Ro Veidovi's actions were justified was a matter of law, and Ro Veidovi was found wanting on the American scales of justice of the time.

He was taken to the US, died on the first day he arrived in New York and was buried there. I say let him rest in peace there at the Cypress Hills National Cemetery.

To set the record straight, the initial reason for raising my concerns was to correct Dona's assertion that Ro Qaraniqio was the vunivalu of Rewa at the time. Dona repeated this throughout his television interview on Noda Gauna. This program was even aired repeatedly, further exacerbating this falsity. I therefore felt it my responsibility to disseminate information based on facts and devoid of any emotional outburst.

The line between the vunivalu and the Roko Tui Dreketi has always been clear, and to suggest that Ro Qaraniqio, as a brother of the Roko Tui Dreketi, was vunivalu, is incorrect. There was never any suggestion that the vunivalu at the time and Ro Qaraniqio were mentioned as one and the same person.

The weight of evidence, both written and oral, would judge both records that Dona referred to as erroneous in this respect, at least. One needs only to visit Lomanikoro in Rewa to observe the physical set-up of the residences of the vunivalu and the Roko Tui Dreketi, and to confirm that the chiefly households are of equal status and that deference to the Roko Tui Dreketi in Rewa is a case of being first among equals. Even the traditional dualistic set-up throughout the province of Rewa is indicative of this, and for Dona not to acknowledge this is the height of self-denial.

Furthermore, the two families merged when the Roko Tui Dreketi Ro Banuve's daughter, Ro Saunalewa, married the then vunivalu, Ro Veceli Musudroka. Today's vunivalu, Ro Epeli Vakacaracara Mataitini, is a direct descendant of that union.

Ro Veceli Musudroka was, indeed, originally from Namosi and his descendants are extremely proud of it and actively maintain this link.

The current vunivalu, therefore, is originally from Namosi, being a direct descendant of one of the first settlers in the Delta together with the Vusavasu, Burenivalu and Nakauraki clans. This fact has never been denied and is recorded with the Native Lands and Fisheries Commission in the "Tukutuku Raraba" for Rewa. Dona would do well not to further denigrate the people of Namosi since he would be cutting his nose to spite his own face.

Dona's comments that "the Veceli Musudroka... is from Namosi... and that Veceli's descendants still live amongst us in Lomanikoro" is extremely disrespectful of the vunivalu. Sad to say, this is unfortunate.

Dona also questioned my mandate to be commenting on Ro Veidovi.

The current vunivalu, my father, is the great-grandson of Ro Veceli Musudroka and the great-great grandson (through his great-grandmother, Ro Saunalewa) of the Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Banuve (Kania), half-brother to Ro Veidovi.

I, therefore, need no mandate from Ro Veidovi's direct descendants, since I am a descendant of both the Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Banuve, and the vunivalu, Ro Veceli Musudroka.

Given his emotional reaction and the false, derogatory comments about Ro Veceli Musudroka and his descendants and the people of Namosi, Dona's letter is hardly worthy of a person professing to be of the Sauturaga clan.

Dona refers to a Roko Tui Dreketi who accepted Christianity. It was Ro Banuve himself. I would have him know also that when Reverend William Cross arrived in Rewa, the Tongans were already conducting praise and worship sessions there, courtesy of the vunivalu.

Dona professes to be insulted and hurt. I make no apologies for having to set the record straight. It teaches us all the lesson that we need to get our facts straight before we represent ourselves as experts on critical and sensitive matters affecting relationships.

My views are, of course, very personal indeed, and I meant them to be nothing other than personal. I am related to Ro Veidovi after all; but I am not going to alter history simply because of that fact.

Finally, in this day and age, when those we defer to are supposed to be guiding us through a more enlightened path towards the saving Grace of God, we want righteous, respectful and God-fearing leaders who will take us forward by standing in the gap against our demons of the past. The last thing we need is leaders who keep us well and truly riveted to the past.

We need not renounce our past; just the ungodly actions of the past. There is a difference.

Anything less is a glorification of sin, and a mockery of God.

May the truth set us free and allow Ro Veidovi to rest in peace.

* Ro Alipate Mataitini is a son of the vunivalu of Rewa. He is a lawyer and a former journalist.



by Dona Tuicaumia Takalaiyale

www.fijitimes.com - Tuesday, January 12, 2010

I REFER to the opinion piece (FT 02/01) by Alivate Mataitini purporting to set the record straight about Ro Veidovi and would be grateful for an opportunity to respond.

Alivate discussed at length the commentary I voluntarily gave Fiji TV for the vernacular program Noda Gauna, which was re-screened on the evening of Monday, December 28.

First and foremost I wish to state that the comments I made on Fiji TV and to other members of the media, were with the full knowledge and approval of my Gone Marama Bale Na Roko Tui Dreketi, who was hosting members of the media to lunch at Valelevu.

These comments were made in my traditional role as the Sauturaga, Chief Advisor of the Roko Tui Dreketi

The recent resurgence of interest in the life story of Ro Veidovi stems from a very generous invitation which was extended in recognition of the Gone Marama Bale, as the direct descendant of Ro Veidovi and the current Roko Tui Dreketi, by the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C. through the United States Embassy here in Suva.

Because the invitation was received by the Gone Marama Bale on the eve of her departure for Los Angeles in June last year, the invitation was not discussed until her return.

At the suggestion of the Smithsonian Institution and the Embassy of the United States, we have attempted to involve the media in retelling and sharing with the people of Rewa the fascinating life of Ro Veidovi and have also approached the Permanent Secretary for Information to involve the Government Archives in this invitation.

In planning our response to this invitation we have also fully informed the Permanent Secretary for Indigenous Affairs and the Permanent Secretary for Foreign Affairs.

While some historical events are lost in the mist of time and relegated to unsubstantiated oral history please allow me to respond to some very serious and offensive allegations made by Alivate regarding the story of Ro Veidovi.

To call Ro Veidovi a murderer is extremely offensive. In the historical context of the time, Ro Veidovi was a warrior chieftain and he was renown throughout the delta and the surrounding islands as a chief to be reckoned with.

If as Alivate implies, Ro Veidovi was bent on undermining the authority of the Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Kania Banuve, why would he have so willingly given himself up to go to the ship Peacock where the members of Valelevu were being held. This was because of his respect and love for the Roko Tui Dreketi and the members of Valelevu held captive aboard.

Alivate also mentions that Ro Qaraniqio was not the vunivalu at the time.

In the published diary of the Methodist missionary John Hunt, The Inheritance of Hope, (pp: 117) it is clearly stated that Ro Qaraniqio was indeed and in fact the vunivalu at that time. Records of the Catholic Church also mention the same, which is in accordance with the oral history we were taught as children.

The Veceli Musudroka recorded in history is from Namosi and what we do know is that Veceli's descendants still live amongst us in Lomanikoro.

Also to state that Commodore Wilkes named Vendovi Island in the Puget Sound off Washington State "to humour the sorrowful Veidovi," is merely repeating a very subjective conjecture and reflects more of the unkind disposition of the writer rather than a true reflection of the relationship between Commodore Wilkes and Ro Veidovi.

All of the information I relayed to the media including Fiji TV was as a result of written historical documents and not something I nor members of Valelevu created to alter the life story of Ro Veidovi.

If he had bothered to ask me, I would have been more than willing to share with Alivate the books and documents from which I gathered the facts of Ro Veidovi.

For Alivate to imply embellishment is not only mischievous but extremely disrespectful to the members of Valelevu and to me personally.

It is also very presumptious of Alivate to place the history of Ro Veidovi in perspective as he carries no mandate from Ro Veidovi's direct descendants.

In closing Alivate claims Ro Veidovi was a victim of the circumstances and the time in which he lived, which is in direct contradiction of his rather vitriolic opinion piece, in which he has lambasted the memory of our high chief.

It is unfortunate and ill informed of Alivate to judge the actions and life of Ro Veidovi from a modern day perspective and not from the historical and social context in which this high chief lived his life.

If Ro Veidovi were present to defend his story today, I rather suspect Alivate would be singing a completely different tune.

On Monday the previous week, the members of Valelevu led by the Gone Marama Bale visited the chiefly household of the Ratu Mai Verata at Nasobasoba.

This is because, like all Fijians the world over, they are proud and happy to acknowledge and affirm their past, and their chiefly ties which are still being maintained today. With all of its highs and lows, the lessons of the past make us what we are now.

For example in Rewa we are not foolishly proud but humbled that Reverend Cross brought the Living Word to Rewa resulting in the dissemination of the Gospel through the vei Mataki network in Viti Levu. We are humbly proud that this was God's plan for Rewa and would never renounce the decision of the Roko Tui Dreketi to accept Christianity.

Perhaps Alivate should seriously examine why he wishes to renounce his past, because we in the delta lands of Rewa only wish to learn from our history and environment that has made us what we celebrate today.

Over the New Year's Eve weekend I was summoned by my Gone Marama Bale Na Roko Tui Dreketi, Adi Teimumu V. Kepa, to Valelevu and she has requested I convey to all who are genuinely connected to Valelevu through blood and vanua ties and have the interest of Rewa and Burebasaga at heart, that this should be our last joint response to Alivate Mataitini's opinion piece about our late chiefly ancestor, Ro Veidovi.

May his soul now rest in peace.

* Dona Tuicaumia Takalaiyale is sauturaga of Navolau, Lomanikoro in Rewa.


Ro Veidovi: Hero or villain

by RO ALIPATE MATAITINI
Saturday, January 02, 2010

ON Monday, December 28, Noda Gauna presented the story of Ro Veidovi, the half-brother of the then Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Banuve, also known as Ro Kania.

While it made for interesting viewing, the information provided by Dona Takalaiyale was not factual.

Takalaiyale's attempts to gloss over what was essentially one of the more infamous periods in Rewa's history with supposed proper chiefly behaviour ultimately demeans those who were affected at the time by Ro Veidovi's criminal act.

By Ro Veidovi's arrest and transport to New York, the Roko Tui Dreketi also lost a brother.

Indeed, the actions of Ro Veidovi brought to the fore the vindictive character of the Americans who, like all colonialists, would not let such an action go unpunished, especially when committed by a native.

Ten people lost their lives through Ro Veidovi's deception.

Those whose bodies were recovered were buried at sea, only to float to the surface to be eaten by the very people who slew them.

So instead of trying to embellish the character of Ro Veidovi, one should put things in their proper perspective and admit that he really was nothing more than a mischief-maker who sought to undermine the authority of the Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Banuve at every turn, and someone who was ultimately a murderer who was arrested and sent to the United States in New York to serve his sentence there.

Ro Veidovi was directly responsible for the murder on September 5, 1834 in Ono, Kadavu of ten crew members of the American brig Charles Doggett. Eight of these men were American. Their deaths were witnessed by a beachcomber, Paddy Connel, who was aboard the Charles Doggett which was anchored off Ono.

Connel was the chief witness when Ro Veidovi was brought to justice six year later.

Ro Veidovi voluntarily gave himself up on May 22, 1840 after being persuaded by his half-brother, Ro Qaraniqio to do so, since their brother and Roko Tui Dreketi, Ro Banuve and his entourage were being held hostage overnight aboard the Peacock.

The vessel was one of four of a squadron of ships commanded by Commodore Charles Wilkes on a scientific expedition of the Pacific. Commodore Wilkes had been instructed by the United States Navy to bring Ro Veidovi to Brooklyn.

It has be said here that Ro Qaraniqio was not the Vunivalu as claimed by Dona Takalaiyale in Noda Gauna.

The Vunivalu at the time was Ro Veceli Musudroka, who was also aboard the Peacock as a member of the Roko Tui Dreketi's party.

In volunteering to bring back Ro Veidovi, Ro Qaraniqio was not doing this out of any interest other than his own.

Ro Veidovi was his main rival in the impending struggle for the title of Roko Tui Dreketi once the incumbent, Ro Banuve died.

With Ro Veidovi out of the way, the path was clear for his eventual assumption of the title.

Nevertheless, the reality was that the Americans cared little about who was the Roko Tui Dreketi, so long as the reverence with which the title was held by all Rewans was enough to compel Ro Veidovi to give himself up.

Simply put, Ro Veidovi was a murderer and he had to be brought to justice.

He was put in chains and the Peacock proceeded to continue on its expedition back to America.

The vessel ran aground off the Columbia River and Ro Veidovi was transferred aboard the Vincennes, flagship of Commodore Wilkes.

So Ro Veidovi was aboard the Vincennes, not the Peacock, when it arrived in New York on July 11, 1842.

He was said to have been heartbroken when the master's mate, Benjamin Vanderford, his close friend during the two year journey from Fiji to New York died (documents say that Commodore Wilkes named one of the islands off Puget Sound Vendovi Island, essentially "to humour sorrowful Vendovi").

However, he had contracted pulmonary tuberculosis during the long journey and died two hours after arrival.

He was buried at the Brooklyn Naval Cemetery and later re-interred at the Cypress Hills National Cemetery in New York.

That Ro Veidovi became a celebrity was therefore far-fetched.

His death was indeed of interest to New York's penny press at the time, but more for the method with which his head was detached from the rest of his body to be added to a collection at the Smithsonian Institute called the "The National Cabinet of Curiosities".

Fifteen years ago, I was studying in New York when my wife, Leba visited me from home.

Together with Ratu Naiqama Lalabalavu (now Tui Cakau and who was then undergoing post-graduate studies in Washington) and Lui Vunibobo, we went to the Cypress Hills National Cemetery to visit Ro Veidovi's grave.

We were pointed to the site, but the spot was bare where he was supposed to have been buried.

There was no headstone; neither were there any other indications to suggest that we were at grave.

But we did feel a connection and that was all we needed to assure us that we were indeed standing at his gravesite.

Leba had brought a piece of masi and a bouquet of flowers, which she laid on the site.

We said a short prayer for the repose of Ro Veidovi's soul and left.

The quest to know one's past to be able to face the future better, however, can never be achieved when the objective is blurred because the inevitable result will be economy with the truth.

Recent articles and comments on Ro Veidovi have tended toward being pompous and overweening, bordering on the narcissistic.

Rather than pulling skeletons out of the closet, it would be much more beneficial for those living in the present to respect each other, making sure that in thought, word and action, the motive for anything we set out to do must be right before God.

Ro Veidovi was an essential element in the history of Rewa, but his role must be placed in its proper perspective.

He was a victim of his own generation, subject to the atrocities of the time like murder, abuse and cannibalism, memories of which can only be expunged by the telling of the truth, rather than an embellishment of what were really acts that should never be condoned.

Really, the past is not something to be proud of.

As a Christian, I say these past actions should be renounced; not repeated as folklore. A blessed 2010 to all.

* Ro Alipate Mataitini is the son of the Vunivalu of Rewa, Ro Epeli Mataitini and is a lawyer by profession.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Tagimoucia Tale and Name

The tale of a rare flower

Jone Luvenitoga
Sunday, January 10, 2010

The tagimoucia plant only grows in the volcanic and cold region high up in the range of mountains on Taveuni.

The rare wild flower only blooms between the months of October and February and can be found nowhere else in the world.

It is only found around the volcanic crater in the middle of the island and takes about four to six hours to reach along a track that is called the Tagimoucia track.

It begins from the town of Naqara near Somosomo Village and departure time is always in the early hours of morning to avoid the heat.

My journey started with a welcoming kava session that lasted until three on Wednesday morning.

This was followed by a short three hour sleep before my alarm went off at six that morning, for the start of climb to 823 metres above sea level, to the Tagimoucia Lake, huffing and puffing all the way up to the top.

To forget the pain, my mind wondered to the story of the big bad wolf and how he huffed and puffed down the first two houses he came across.

I felt I could do with that much strength, at the same time cursing the late welcoming kava session. There was the thought of my grog partners still in the comfort of their beds. Man, I never learn.

But it is something about enduring pain and lack of sleep when the locals speak of a journey. For when they speak of a great journey, they are referring to the hiccups they overcome which would make it a memorable one. Something that will be remembered and cherished for the way they handled it, just as I suffered that day.

All thoughts of legendary figures and biblical heros kept appearing in my mind as I looked for comfort. Half way up on our climb towards Tagimoucia Lake with a camera bag that weighed about 8kg, I focused on the biblical description of the angel of death. His story is in the book of Revelations, "He who sits on the pale horse is death, and Hell follows Him."

The only thing that followed me was pain, nausea and a gut shattering feeling.

Sometimes it can push you to the edge of sanity. we went on until we reached the top of the mountain, at a point called Rai-rai-Dreketi where heaven seems to open its doors. It's there that you get the feeling that the breathtaking scenes of the garden island of Fiji can kiss every pain away. It gave me a totally different experience to savour for the rest of my life.

Below us was the beauty of Taveuni. Its aqua green waters and landscape can sooth every aching muscle in your body.

We later walked on towards Drano-(lagoon) the volcanic crater at the centre of the island, which every river feeds off. This is the home of the legendary flower, the tagimoucia.

Seeing a few flowers, the first thing to do was to prove the legend behind the tagimoucia and its tears.

The moment we broke a few, there were tiny tears streaming down from within the flowers.

As legend suggests, they are the tears of a princess who sort the comfort of the tree as she ran from her village folks. The trees hid her, sharing her pain as well. And the tears are the reminder of those final moments.

Her name was Princess Uluiqalau. And the choice of her place of death was beautiful.

The coolness that rose from deep within the crater revived our energy that we totally forgot the fatigue and pain of the past few hours. On our backs we looked up to the sky. There would never be a better place to set your spirits free. We lay on the cold hard surface on the side of the crater almost falling off to sleep. It felt like home.


Love and sorrow

www.fijitimes.com - Jone Luvenitoga
Sunday, January 10, 2010

The significant part about the legend of the tagimoucia is in its name, says Tui Somosomo Viliame Mudu. The tagimoucia, he says, is a shortened version of its original name which is tagi - (cry or to feel someone's pain) mo - (so you) ucui - (understand for this particular event) au - (me). He says there is a story of sorrow and pain behind the flower.

"It's more like a curse she (a princess) cast on hunters who were tracking her through the bush as she made her escape from the man she was betrothed to," Mr Mudu said.

The tagimoucia, he says, is a symbol of broken love and pain.

For the runaway princess, the track that leads to Tagimoucia Lake would have resembled the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem - the way of sorrows.

She had escaped into the jungle, and had hidden herself from the hunters. As they approached her, she held onto the trunks of the tree for comfort and whispered her final words, "I want them to feel my pain."

They were words she kept repeating before the jungle engulfed her and hid her from her trackers. And as her tears fell on the ground and on the branches of the trees, a flower grew from every tear.

As her final wish was granted, her body bonded to the trees forever. And the rare tagimoucia flowers still carry those hurtful moments.

For years he said different stories had been heard of the flower. "Others may have their own story to tell, but this I heard from my late father."